What Homeowners Should Know About Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock
Choosing between an electric strike and a magnetic lock is one of the more consequential decisions a homeowner can make when upgrading to powered access control, and the differences between these two technologies run deeper than most product listings suggest. Both systems use electrical current to control who enters a door, but they do it through fundamentally different mechanisms, suit different door types and use cases, and carry distinct installation requirements, failure behaviors, and long-term maintenance obligations. Understanding those differences before purchasing hardware can prevent costly rework, code violations, and security gaps that are difficult to close after the fact.
What Homeowners Should Know About Electric Strike vs Magnetic Lock Overview
An electric strike replaces or augments the door’s existing strike plate — the metal receptacle mounted in the frame that catches the latch or deadbolt. In a standard mechanical door, the strike is passive. In an electric strike system, it becomes active: a solenoid inside the strike holds a pivoting keep in the locked or unlocked position. When the control signal is sent — from a keypad, card reader, intercom, or remote — the solenoid releases the keep, allowing the latch to retract and the door to open without anyone turning a knob from the outside. The door hardware itself, including the lock cylinder and lever, remains largely unchanged.
A magnetic lock, often called a maglock, works on an entirely different principle. It consists of two components: an electromagnet mounted to the door frame and an armature plate mounted to the door itself. When current flows through the electromagnet, it creates a holding force — commonly rated between 600 and 1,200 pounds in residential and light commercial applications — that keeps the armature plate, and therefore the door, firmly closed. Cut the current, and the door is free to open. There is no latch, no bolt, and no mechanical interlock of any kind.
This distinction — latch-based versus surface-mounted magnetic force — explains nearly every practical difference between the two systems, from how they look on a door to how they behave during a power outage. Homeowners who grasp this core mechanical contrast will find the rest of the comparison much easier to evaluate.
Key Factors to Compare Before You Choose
Fail-safe versus fail-secure behavior is often the first factor that should drive a decision. Magnetic locks are inherently fail-safe: remove power and the door unlocks. This is appropriate for interior rooms, secondary entrances, and any door covered by fire or life-safety codes that require free egress during an emergency. Electric strikes, by contrast, can be purchased in either fail-safe or fail-secure configurations. A fail-secure electric strike keeps the door locked when power is lost, which suits exterior entry doors where security must hold even during an outage — but it requires a separate mechanical means of egress for safety compliance.
Door and frame compatibility narrows the field significantly. Magnetic locks require a solid, flat mounting surface on both the door and frame and are well suited to aluminum-frame glass doors, metal doors, and hollow metal frames. They are more difficult to install cleanly on standard residential wood doors with traditional trim profiles. Electric strikes fit into the existing strike pocket in a door frame, making them a natural match for residential wood doors, steel doors, and frames already cut for a standard strike plate. Retrofitting an electric strike into an existing door typically requires less visible modification and preserves the door’s finished appearance.
Wiring and power requirements differ meaningfully as well. Both systems run on low-voltage DC power, typically 12V or 24V, supplied by a dedicated access control power supply or a panel with battery backup. Magnetic locks draw current continuously to maintain the hold — meaning the electromagnet is always energized when the door is locked. Electric strikes draw current only momentarily during the unlock cycle in many configurations, which can reduce long-term power consumption and heat generation. In either case, a licensed electrician or certified locksmith should route the wiring, because improper wire gauge, inadequate power supply sizing, or loose connections can cause intermittent failures that are difficult to diagnose.
Aesthetic and practical day-to-day use also differ. Magnetic locks require a request-to-exit (REX) device — typically a motion sensor or push-bar button — so occupants can leave without presenting credentials from the inside. Electric strikes allow the interior lever or knob to function normally for egress, which many homeowners find more intuitive. For a residential front door used by family members of varying ages and abilities, the natural egress of an electric strike is often the more practical choice.
Costs and Risks
Hardware costs for a basic single-door system vary by brand, holding force rating, and whether the unit includes a built-in controller or requires a separate access control panel. As a general reference, electric strike hardware alone averages around $150, with a typical range of $80 to $300 depending on ANSI grade and finish. Magnetic lock units for a single door average around $120, with a range of $60 to $250 for the maglock assembly itself. These figures exclude the power supply, credentials hardware (keypad, card reader, intercom), wiring, and labor — all of which can add $300 to $800 or more depending on the complexity of the installation and whether conduit work is required.
Travel: free in service area. Average installed cost for a complete single-door electric strike system: $450 · Range: $250–$900. Average installed cost for a complete magnetic lock system: $400 · Range: $220–$850. These ranges reflect residential applications and will shift upward for retrofit situations involving finished walls, long wire runs, or integration with existing smart-home or alarm systems.
The risks of improper installation are not trivial. A maglock installed with the wrong holding force rating, misaligned armature, or insufficient power supply may appear to function but fail under moderate physical stress — a risk that may not surface until an actual security event. An electric strike installed in the wrong ANSI size or with an incompatible latch throw can cycle noisily, wear prematurely, or allow the door to be forced open with techniques that would not work against a properly sized unit. Both systems require the installer to verify that the door and frame are square and that hardware tolerances are within specification, because electrical access control amplifies rather than compensates for pre-existing mechanical problems.
Code compliance is a genuine risk area that homeowners frequently underestimate. In most jurisdictions, any door on a means of egress must meet requirements under the International Building Code, NFPA 101 (Life Safety Code), or local equivalents. Magnetic locks on egress doors typically require a three-point release: a push-bar or REX sensor, a credential reader, and a manual override — all coordinated and documented. Installing a maglock on an exterior door without verifying these requirements with the local authority having jurisdiction can result in failed inspections, mandatory removal, or liability exposure in the event of an emergency. A qualified locksmith familiar with local code will verify compliance as part of the installation process.
When to Call a Locksmith
Homeowners should involve a professional locksmith at the planning stage, not after hardware has been purchased. One of the most common and avoidable mistakes is buying a magnetic lock or electric strike online based on a general description, only to discover that the door frame lacks the geometry, depth, or material to support it, or that the door itself is misaligned in ways that will prevent reliable operation. A locksmith can assess the door and frame condition, identify any rekeying or mechanical repair work that should precede the access control installation, and recommend hardware that matches the actual application rather than a generic use case.
A locksmith is also the correct resource when an existing electric strike or magnetic lock is malfunctioning. Common failure symptoms include a door that opens intermittently without credentials being presented, a door that will not release even when the correct credential is used, unusual noise during the lock or unlock cycle, and visible heat or corrosion on the hardware. These symptoms can stem from power supply issues, wiring faults, worn solenoids, misaligned armature plates, or controller failures — and diagnosing them accurately requires both electrical testing equipment and mechanical knowledge of how the hardware should operate. Attempting to trace these faults without proper tools often results in misdiagnosis and unnecessary hardware replacement.
Emergency situations involving access control hardware — a door locked in the fail-secure position during a power outage, a magnetic lock that will not release despite power being present, or a door that cannot be secured after a strike failure — should not wait for a scheduled appointment. A 24-hour mobile locksmith service can respond, diagnose, and resolve these situations without damaging the door or frame, which matters because access control hardware is significantly more expensive to replace than a standard mechanical lock.
Recommended Next Steps
Before contacting any vendor or installer, homeowners should document the door they want to upgrade: door material and thickness, frame material and depth, whether the door swings in or out, whether it is on a means of egress, and what credential method is preferred (keypad, card, fob, smartphone, or intercom). This information will allow a locksmith or access control specialist to give an accurate recommendation and quote without requiring a site visit just to answer basic questions.
It is worth reviewing whether the door currently has any mechanical issues — a latch that sticks, a frame that has shifted, a door closer that is out of adjustment — and addressing those before adding electrical hardware. Access control systems rely on consistent mechanical behavior to function reliably. A door that binds or rattles will cause recurring problems regardless of how capable the electronic components are.
Homeowners who are considering integrating access control with a broader smart-home or alarm system should discuss that integration explicitly with the locksmith before any hardware is ordered. Not all electric strikes and magnetic locks communicate natively with all alarm panels or smart-home hubs, and the wiring decisions made during installation will determine whether future expansion is straightforward or requires significant rework. Planning for integration from the beginning is substantially less expensive than retrofitting it afterward.
Finally, ask any locksmith or installer you are considering whether they are licensed, bonded, and insured in your state or province, and whether they will provide documentation of the installation that can be retained for insurance or code compliance purposes. Responsible access control installation leaves a paper trail — a record of the hardware installed, the power supply specifications, and the wiring configuration — that protects the homeowner if questions arise later.
Call Low Rate Locksmith
Low Rate Locksmith provides 24-hour mobile locksmith service across the US and Canada, including electric strike installation, magnetic lock installation, access control diagnostics, and emergency response for failed or malfunctioning electronic hardware. If you are evaluating electric locks for your home or need a professional to assess your current system, call (833) 439-8636 to speak with a technician who can walk through your specific door configuration and recommend a practical path forward.